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Composting - Helpful Hints
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Why consider backyard composting?
Composting is nature’s way of recycling kitchen and yard waste into a dark, earth-smelling soil conditioner.
Using this humus in your garden, flowerbeds or around trees and shrubs will improve both the soil and the plants growing in it.
What materials can be composted?
Leaves, lawn clipping, old hay, sawdust, straw, cornstalks, plants and plant parts from vegetable gardens or flower beds can all be composted, other things that can also be composted are cool ashes, eggshells, coffee grounds and filters, fruit and vegetable scraps, newspaper, paper towels and napkins, cardboard rolls from paper towels and toilet tissue. No deceased material should be used in the compost pile or materials that have been sprayed with weed killers.
Composting ………Easy as 1,2,3,!!!!!
  1. Start the heap with about six inches of the coarsest raw organic material you have, such as chopped brush. This allows air circulation in the bottom of the pile.
  2. Moisten with water; sprinkle with lime and cover with one-inch of garden soil or manure.
  3. Additional layers of plant material alternated with layers of soil or manure can be added until the pile reaches the desired height. The temperature in your compost pile will probably reach 140 to 160 degrees F. within a week and begin to "settle." These are signs that your heap is working well or "cooking".
Kitchen scraps
Kitchen scraps are ideal for your compost pile. Keep a covered bucket or food container near the kitchen sink. Put in all vegetable scraps, fruit remains. Breads, pastas, grains, coffee grounds and tea bags. Eggshells, unless broken into small pieces, will take longer to break down, as well as corncobs. It’s best to leave out meat, fish and bones to avoid the potential of attracting unwanted animals, by shredding foods into small pieces, a faster decomposition will occur. You can add wet paper towels and napkins to the bucket.
Additions
Paper towels and paper towel tubes, shredded paper, cardboard packaging and fireplace ashes can also be added to your compost. It is best to recycle all the paper you can with your local recycling program and then compost the non-recyclable and soiled paper.
You can slow it but you can’t stop it.
If you ignore every tip and suggestion, your compost pile will shrink and decompose over time. With a few basic techniques, your pile will decompose a little faster. But no matter what you do, you cannot fail because compost happens.

Caution is advised in composting the following plant materials

When adding weeds, a hot compost pile of 140-150 degrees should be maintained for several days or 120 degrees for a longer period to destroy the seeds. Pernicious weeds such as Bermuda grass and oxalis may not be killed during composting and can re-sprout after the composting is harvested. To avoid this, put them in a black plastic bag. And leave it in the sun for several weeks, then chop the plants up place them in the bin.
Plants infected with a severe insect attack where eggs could be preserved, or where the insects themselves could survive in spite of the compost’s heat, should not be added.

Poisonous plants, such as oleander, hemlock and castor bean can harm soil and should only be added in small quantities.

Ivy and succulents should be shredded or chopped up before composting, or they may re-grow when the compost is used. If they do start to take root and re-grow in your compost pile. Pull them out, solar dry them for a few days, and then reload them onto the pile.

Fibrous plants like magnolia leaves take a long time to break down; they compost better if they are chopped up.
Plants and trees listed below are best composted separately or added in small quantities:
Caution is advised with plants which have acids toxic to other plants and soil life. Such as eucalyptus, bay laurel, walnut, juniper, acacia, and cypress.

Having a few of these leaves in your compost pile will not harm the quality of your finished compost, but a significant percentage will deter healthy plant growth.

Watch out for plants which may be too acidic or contain substances that interfere with the decomposition process, such as pine needles. Use no more than 10% pine needles in your compost pile. Special compost piles are often made of acidic materials, such as pine needles and leaves. This type of compost will lower the soil’s PH and stimulate the acid loving plants like strawberries, camellias, azaleas and gardenias.
Rodents, flies and odors
In the unlikely event that your pile does attract rodents, stop adding food scraps, turn the pile and check with your hardware store for animal repellents. As a preventative measure to avoid this, leave out meat scraps, fats and cooking oils, sprinkling cayenne pepper liberally around the compost pile should discourage rodents if they are a problem.

Small fruit flies are often attracted to food scraps placed on the very top of a pile. Do not "dump and run" when adding food scraps, instead bury them 6-12 inches below the surface, or cover them with leaves, straw, woody materials or garden soil.

Another concern is odor generation which is generally caused by having mostly "green" and too little "browns" or by having large clumps of green inside a well-balance green and brown pile, your solution is to generously add brown materials such as leaves, straw, woody materials or dry grass. Thoroughly blending your batch with a pitchfork also helps.
Hints for successful composting
  • Composting is a biological process. Bacteria are usually the first to break down plant material, follow shortly by fungal and protozoan. After a while, centipedes, millipedes, beetles and earthworms do their parts. The more surface area the microorganisms have to work on, the faster the materials decompose.
  • During the composting process, the compost pile should be turned at least once. About 6 weeks after the pile is started.
  • A large compost pile will insulate itself and hold the heat better than a smaller one. While piles larger than 5ft. cubed sometimes have problems getting enough air, slowing down the composting process.
  • The material should be kept moist for the best results.
  • Compost is ready to use when it is dark brown, crumbly and earthy smelling. Working a heaping handful into each square foot of turned soil for gardening or use as mulch around trees and shrubs.
  • Some compositors place the finished compost into 2 or 3-inch high piles for a few days, to allow any sow bugs, earwigs, etc. a chance to migrate back to the unfinished compost pile and continue their work.
  • Another ideas to start a new pile in the late fall and cover your first pile with a sheet of plastic, straw or other material. This allows the compost to season until early spring when you’re ready to use it.
  • Once your compost is finished, you may wish to sift it to further refine your working medium. This assists the growing process of root vegetables, but is not required.
How do I begin composting?
Compost piles can be made with or without bins. Some people just rake their yard trimmings into a pile and ignore them. In about two years, the materials will have transformed itself into a rich soil amendment to use in gardening and landscaping
What are the advantages of bin composting?
A bin helps keep the pile orderly and makes it heat up and decompose more rapidly. Bins for yard wastes can be constructed of wire, cinder blocks, pallets or wood. A food waste composter is easily be made form a trash can. Other types of bins include worm bins commercially produced plastic and wooden bins, and trenches.People with a lot of time and raw material sometimes create turning bins, a series of 3 or more bins that allows compost to be made in a short time by turning the material on a regular schedule.
Source: Easy Backyard Composting sponsored by Chattanooga Audubon Society and Hickory Valley Garden Club.
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